The Subaru Outback wagon has long been a perennial favorite of practical Northwest car buyers. It offers the two things they look for, usefulness and value. In recent years, a third component has been added to the mix — style. Now don’t me wrong, the Outback isn’t going to win any serious styling competitions, but in comparison to the ugly, boxy Subaru’s of just a few years ago, it has come light years forward in styling.

The Outback has also been a regular favorite of Northwest auto writers, winning the best in class at Mudfest, the annual sport utility vehicle (SUV) competition put on by the Northwest Automotive Press Association several years running.

As vehicle prices continue to climb, the search for sport-utility alternatives is not only causing thrifty, value-conscious Pacific Northwest buyers to look at crossover vehicles, but lots of other folks who might not have considered a Subaru just a few years ago as well.

Part small station wagon, part SUV these hybrids suddenly make a lot of sense for a lot of people. Subaru has a long history of building small, economical wagons and is a world leader in all-wheel-drive expertise. Their vehicles offer many of the virtues of an SUV — four-wheel drive and cargo capacity — while avoiding their wallet-emptying fuel consumption and huge size.

With all this in mind, we came away impressed. Our test model, a white, L.L. Bean edition, is one of the top-of-the-line Subarus. In spite of its hefty $30,000+ price tag, it showcased the latest in Subaru performance, technology, and yes, style.

Based on the Outback Limited Wagon, the L.L. Bean Edition offers a package of exclusive comfort and appearance features and a no-cost, extended maintenance package (tire rotations and oil changes are covered for three years, at the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals).

This new flagship model features a 3.0-liter, 212 horsepower, horizontal six-cylinder engine which is the manufacturer’s technology standard-bearer. It also benefits from a new sophisticated all-wheel-drive system, with all-speed traction control called Vehicle Dynamics Control, or VDC. This system monitors the angle of the steering wheel, throttle position, brakes and other inputs while the car is in motion, then makes adjustments if you’re steering in a different direction from where the car is heading. It only activates if the all-wheel drive system doesn’t right your course. It applies brakes and/or reduces engine power to reduce wheel spin to help you keep your footing. The net effect of all this new hardware is more power and control in a practical, well-equipped vehicle.

All Outback Wagons share utilitarian, functional styling — stone guard-shielded fog lights, beefy front bumper, wide grille and broad ribbed body cladding from mid-door downward. Alloy wheels dispel the utilitarian look a bit.

Interiorwise, the L.L. Bean version offers two-toned leather with wood trim. It bears the logo of the well-known Freeport, Maine, outfitter both inside and again on the front fender. The cabin is as nicely appointed as you would expect a $30,000 vehicle to be. It features leather-trimmed seating, eight-way power adjustable driver’s seat, automatic climate control, power windows, mirrors and locks, along with a Momo steering wheel, There’s also an unusual, dual power moon roof in which the front section pops up, the back opens and closes fully.

Also featured is an upscale sound system manufactured by McIntosh Audio. Audiophiles know that name for the premium home stereo components they build. This system includes 200 watts of power running through 11 speakers in seven different locations. The AM/FM/Weather band receiver also features CD and cassette players and a funky, retro-looking faceplate.

Behind the wheel, the driving position is comfortable with front seats adjustable to fit about anyone. Instrumentation is easy to read and all the controls are simple and easy to reach. Visibility is good in all directions except straight back, where it’s hindered by headrests situated above the back seats.

In back, there is room for two small adults. Subaru says three, but trust me, you wouldn’t want to sit there for any length of time. Legroom is also in somewhat short supply — especially with the front seats pushed all the way back.

Storage space behind the 60/40 split folding back seat is a whopping 68.6 cubic feet with the rear seats folded down and 34.2 with all seats in place. The lift-over height in back is low, affording easy access to cargo through the hatchback. There’s also a retractable cover.

On the road, the 212 horse 3.0-liter six is strong when it needs to be — such as passing situations. Folks who have owned four-cylinder cars and have become accustomed to leisurely acceleration as a tradeoff for fuel economy will especially appreciate this powerplant. Fuel economy measures a respectable 20 mpg city and 27 highway — comparable to many four-bangers. I averaged about 23 miles per gallon in a mix of city and highway driving.

Handling is very car-like because the Outback is essentially a car. It delivers a comfortable, reasonably quiet ride. Its seven-plus inches of ground clearance and high-profile 16 inch tires don’t allow it to corner like a sports car, but it is seriously more agile than any SUV ever thought about being — and a woman in a skirt won’t have problems getting in or out.

Whines: Probably the worse thing I can say about the Outback wagon is styling is still pretty bland, lacking some of the sizzle of an SUV. In spite of being loaded with features, I still thought it was a little on the pricey side, inviting what are perhaps unfair comparisons with upscale base models like the Volvo V70 Cross Country, Lexus RX300 and Acura MDX.

Applause: The high-tech and comfort features are beginning to rival German brands. Subaru’s reputation for durability will just be enhanced with its winning formula of versatile, right-sized packaging, capable all-wheel drive and a tall station wagon look.

Bottom Line: Subaru’s line of Outbacks are comfortable, well appointed and can conquer the worst road conditions, making them a sensible alternative to big, heavy, gas-guzzling SUVs. These are very simply practical, comfortable, useful vehicles.